By Rita Shirley LeBleu
El Tucan’s Mexican Grill turned 12 on Thursday, Apr. 30. That’s a feat, especially in a town of fewer than 3,000 souls. In fact, it was because of DeQuincy’s population and the location of the restaurant – a couple of miles west of the center of town –that Humberto DeLeon’s business partners said “no” to his idea of expanding to 1577 W. Fourth St. His former franchise, Los Mayas, had locations in DeRidder and Leesville.
Instead of acquiescing, DeLeon launched out on his own. Though it’s unknown how much the conversation weighed his decision, Fausto Mejia told DeLeon he was about to retire and El Tucan’s had the potential to become to DeQuincy what Fausto’s was.
By the way (and for the word nerds), Fausto is a Spanish and Portuguese surname derived from Latin roots, generally meaning “fortunate.” Humberto is a Spanish and Portuguese name of Germanic origin meaning “bright warrior,” an apt description for any small business owner these days.
Two Mexican restaurants have opened and closed here. El Tucan, like some other local businesses, survived the challenge of two hurricanes and a few COVID variations. And food prices! Está loco! The restaurant business is not for the faint of heart. It seems the ones who make it have owners who work as hard or often harder than employees.
DeLeon learned early. He worked as a waiter as a young man in El Monte Tamagipa, Mexico, he said. In college, he met his wife, Martha. After school they came to the United States.
She and their son, Javier, help on the weekends. The daughter works for the Calcasieu Parish District Attorney. Martha doesn’t mind all the hours her husband puts in, according to DeLeon.
“Happy wife, happy life,” he said.
DeLeon knows food. The menu hasn’t changed much in 12 years. The Burrito Acapulco is his creation. Tortillas are fresh, homemade. Ice cream is free. Currently, the restaurant serves breakfast on Saturday.
DeLeon said he takes his food cues from patrons. Birria (BEER-ree-ah) tacos, quesadillas and more were recently added. Birria is tenderly marinated, seasoned with ground, roasted peppers and other flavors then oh-so-very-slowly oven-steamed – yes, steamed, according to DeLeon. It takes mucho time and attention. DeLeon described the beef birria and other seasoning at El Tucan as TexMex. Authentic seasoning might be a little too fiery for most folks, he said.
El Tucan quality and service are consistently top notch, but maybe that seasoning that DeLeon wouldn’t discuss in detail includes a little sprinkle of love.
“Yes, it was risky to build a business in a small town,” he said, but in a place where everybody knows everybody, some of your customers become family.”
For those who want the taste of slow-cooked Mexican at home, DeLeon suggested Mexican Steak (Bistec a la Mexicana). Here’s a crock pot version. Put it over rice or slap it between a flour tortilla. It’s not steamed birria, but it will work in tacos and quesadillas.
Bistec a la Mexicana
Ingredients
Slow Cooker Mexican Beef Steak
(Serves 6)
2 lbs. round steak or beef stew meat cut into small pieces
2 large tomatoes, chopped
2 jalapeno peppers, seeds and veins removed, diced.
1 serrano pepper, optional if you like spicy
3 garlic cloves
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 tsp salt
1 bay leaf
Chopped cilantro garnish
Bouillon
cornstarch slurry
2 tsp. water
1 tsp. cornstarch
2 tsp. roasted beef base (or make a paste with dry or cubed bouillon)
Instructions
Bouillon Cornstarch Slurry
In a small bowl, make the bouillon cornstarch slurry by adding the water to the cornstarch and mixing until completely smooth and blended, then add the bouillon
Paste and mix it with the cornstarch slurry. Set aside.
Add meat to the slow cooker, followed by the cumin, pepper, salt, tomatoes, onion, garlic, jalapenos, bay leaf and serrano. Add the bouillon cornstarch slurry and stir everything so it’s combined well. (You don’t need to add liquid, it will create its own juices.)
Cook on low for 7-8 hours or until the meat is tender.
Sprinkle with cilantro.
